Port Blair, Havelock and Neil
The Cellular Jail and Ross Island, then Radhanagar, reef snorkelling and the quiet beaches of Neil, all by ferry.
From US$2,600 per person
India › Andaman & Nicobar Islands
These 500-odd islands sit closer to Myanmar and Indonesia than to mainland India, and they hold the country's best diving and its most famous beach. They also hold closed tribal reserves that no visitor may enter, which shapes any honest itinerary.
The chain runs for about 800 km north to south in the Bay of Bengal, roughly 1,200 km from Chennai and far closer to Indonesia's Aceh than to Kolkata. The Andaman group in the north is open to visitors; the Nicobar group in the south is not. The islands are the tops of a submerged mountain range, which is why the water drops away steeply and the fringing reefs are so good for diving.
The history here is mostly penal and military. The British built the Cellular Jail at Port Blair in 1906 to hold Indian political prisoners in solitary cells, and the islands were occupied by Japan from 1942 to 1945. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami struck the southern islands hard. Several indigenous peoples, including the Great Andamanese, Jarawa, Onge, Shompen and Sentinelese, live here, some in deliberate isolation protected by law.
For a traveller from Britain, Europe or the United States the appeal is straightforward: warm, clear water, proper PADI diving, empty white beaches and no tourist crush outside the Indian holiday peaks. The practicalities are less straightforward. Flights all route through mainland India, ferries govern your schedule, permit rules for foreign nationals change, and darkness falls before six because the islands sit far east of their clock.
You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.
In Andaman & Nicobar Islands that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.
Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.
| Festival | When | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Island Tourism Festival | Jan | A ten-day territorial festival in Port Blair with folk troupes from the mainland settler communities, food stalls and water sports displays. |
| Subhash Mela | Jan | Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose's visit of 1943 is marked at Port Blair with parades and a fair, reflecting the islands' wartime history. |
| Durga Puja | Sep-Oct | The large Bengali settler community stages full pandals in Port Blair, Diglipur and Rangat; the biggest community festival here. |
| Pongal and Tamil new year | Jan and Apr | Tamil settler villages across South Andaman mark both, with kolam patterns and new-pot rice cooking. |
| Christmas and Easter | Dec and Mar-Apr | There is a substantial Christian population, including Nicobarese and Karen communities, and churches in Port Blair hold full services. |
| Eid | Islamic calendar, moves yearly | Observed in Port Blair and the Muslim settler villages, with a public holiday across the territory. |
| Beach Festival, Swaraj Dweep | Feb-Mar | Dive demonstrations, music and food on Havelock, timed for the calmest sea of the year. |
| Republic Day | 26 Jan | A notably large parade in Port Blair given the territory's penal and military history, with the Cellular Jail floodlit. |
Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.
Visibility and sea conditions are best from December to April, with diving generally good from October to May. The monsoon from roughly May to September brings heavy rain, rough crossings and cancelled ferries. Swim between flags where lifeguards are posted, respect rip-current warnings at Radhanagar, and never touch coral.
Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.
| Place | What it is |
|---|---|
| Cellular Jail light and sound show | An evening narration of the prison's history projected onto the wings, in Hindi and English on alternate nights. |
| Dive school evenings, Havelock | The PADI schools at Govind Nagar run briefings, log sessions and film nights, which is the island's real social scene. |
| Beach shack dining, Govind Nagar | Alcohol is legal and served at hotels and licensed shacks, but the islands shut early because it is dark by six. |
| Island Tourism Festival performances | Ten days in January of mainland settler folk forms, from Bengali to Tamil to Nicobarese presentations. |
| Corbyn's Cove and Port Blair hotel bars | The capital's limited after-dark options, mostly hotel terraces with harbour views. |
| Note on early nights | Because the islands run on Indian Standard Time but sit far to the east, sunset is around 5pm and most places are quiet by nine. |
| Airport or route | Detail |
|---|---|
| Veer Savarkar International, Port Blair (IXZ) | Four kilometres from the town centre; the only airport taking scheduled passenger flights in the territory. |
| Flights from mainland India | Direct services from Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi and Bengaluru; Chennai and Kolkata are the shortest at about two hours. |
| From the UK and Europe | No direct flights of any kind; fly London or Frankfurt to Chennai, Kolkata or Delhi, overnight there, then fly on to Port Blair. |
| From the USA | Three flights in total is normal, via a Gulf hub, then an Indian metro, then IXZ; allow 30 to 34 hours with a mainland overnight. |
| Inter-island air | Limited seaplane and helicopter services operate to Havelock and Diglipur but are weather-dependent and not bookable reliably. |
| Baggage and timing | Flights into IXZ almost all land in the morning, because afternoon weather and the early sunset limit operations. |
| Route or station | Detail |
|---|---|
| There is no railway in the islands | The Andaman and Nicobar Islands have no rail network at all; all movement is by road, ferry or air. |
| Mainland rail to Chennai | If you are arriving overland, Chennai Central connects to the whole south, and Chennai is the main air gateway to IXZ. |
| Mainland rail to Kolkata | Howrah and Sealdah serve eastern India, and Kolkata is the other principal departure point for Port Blair flights. |
| Ferries instead of trains | Government ferries sail from Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam to Port Blair, taking roughly 50 to 70 hours. |
| Inter-island ferries | Private catamarans and government ferries link Port Blair, Havelock and Neil daily; book ahead in season. |
| Andaman Trunk Road | The 300 km road north to Diglipur runs in convoy through a tribal reserve, with strict no-stopping and no-photography rules. |
December to April is the sweet spot, with 23-32°C days, the calmest sea and the best underwater visibility of the year. Avoid June to August, when heavy rain cancels ferries and closes dive schools, and remember that darkness falls before six all year.
| Months | Season | Day temperature | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dec-Feb | Dry and clear | 23-30°C / 73-86°F | The best conditions of the year: calm sea, strong diving visibility, low humidity by island standards and reliable ferries. |
| Mar-May | Hot and humid | 25-32°C / 77-90°F | Still mostly dry into April, with warm water for diving; May brings rising humidity and the first heavy squalls. |
| Jun-Aug | Southwest monsoon | 24-31°C / 75-88°F | Heavy persistent rain, rough crossings, frequent ferry cancellations and many dive schools closed. |
| Sep-Nov | Retreating monsoon | 24-31°C / 75-88°F | Rain eases through October and the sea settles; November is a good shoulder month with lower prices. |
Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.
The Cellular Jail and Ross Island, then Radhanagar, reef snorkelling and the quiet beaches of Neil, all by ferry.
From US$2,600 per person
A full PADI Open Water course with a Havelock school, then four fun dives at the outer pinnacles.
From US$2,925 per person
Walk the Cellular Jail wings, the ruined British capital on Ross and the Japanese bunkers with an island historian.
From US$1,850 per person
Ten days of settler-community performance in the capital, paired with Radhanagar and a reef day.
From US$2,200 per person
Glass-bottom boats in the marine park, mangrove creeks at Chidiya Tapu, and two days of reef snorkelling.
From US$2,112 per person
The long convoy road north to Saddle Peak and the Ross and Smith sandbar, with limestone caves on the way.
From US$3,075 per person
Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.
A resident PADI instructor takes you through the pool skills and then down a sloping reef wall where the drop-off begins at eighteen metres. She logs the dive with you afterwards and explains how the reefs recovered from the 2010 bleaching.
A Port Blair resident whose family was transported here walks you cell by cell through the surviving wings, including the gallows and the central tower. The light-and-sound show that evening then makes narrative sense.
A fishing family takes you out after dark with hand lines, which is how most of the island's catch is still taken. They cook what you land on the beach and explain how supply ships govern island prices.
A local naturalist paddles you into the mangrove channels at the island's southern tip at dawn, watching for sea eagles and mudskippers. He explains which species arrived with the settlers and which were always here.
For the best diving in India and beaches that genuinely rival Southeast Asia, with a colonial prison and a Japanese occupation layered underneath. The water is 27 to 29°C, visibility at the outer pinnacles runs past thirty metres in season, and outside Indian holiday peaks Radhanagar can be almost empty.
Yes, and this is absolute. The entire Nicobar group is closed to tourists, with no permit available. Tribal reserve areas on the Andamans are also closed, and North Sentinel Island is strictly off-limits, with any approach illegal and dangerous. The Andaman Trunk Road crosses a reserve under convoy rules forbidding stopping, photography or contact.
Foreign nationals can visit the permitted islands, and historically a Restricted Area Permit applies, issued on arrival at Port Blair on presentation of your passport and Indian visa. These rules have been revised several times in recent years, so check the current requirement before you fly and carry printed copies. We confirm the position for every departure.
December to April, with 23 to 32°C, calm seas, good visibility and reliable ferries. The Island Tourism Festival runs ten days in January at Port Blair, with folk performance from every settler community, and Havelock's Beach Festival falls in February or March. May to September is monsoon, when crossings are cancelled and dive schools shut.
There are no international flights to Port Blair. Fly London, Frankfurt or Paris to Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi or Bengaluru, stay overnight, then take a morning flight of about two hours to IXZ. From North America that is three flights and 30 to 34 hours. Ships from Chennai and Kolkata take 50 to 70 hours.
Among the safest places in India for a woman alone. The islands are small, policed and economically dependent on visitors behaving well and being looked after. The real risks are in the water: rip currents at Radhanagar, boat crossings in rough weather, and diving beyond your certification. Use licensed operators only.
Our ground cost runs from about US$1,480 for the six-night history itinerary to roughly US$2,460 for ten nights including the far north, per person sharing. The PADI course programme is around US$2,340. Island costs are higher than the mainland because everything arrives by ship. Mainland connecting flights, international flights and visa are extra.
Seven nights minimum once you account for the ferries: two in Port Blair and four or five on Havelock and Neil. Nine or ten if you want a dive certification or the northern islands. Anything under five nights is mostly spent in transit, and the inter-island ferry schedule will dictate your itinerary rather than the reverse.
Because the islands keep Indian Standard Time but lie far east of the meridian it is set by. Sunrise can be around 5am and darkness falls close to 5pm all year, with little seasonal variation this near the equator. Dive boats leave at dawn, sightseeing finishes by four, and restaurants are quiet by nine.
Fish, mud crab, prawns and seasonal lobster, cooked in Tamil, Bengali and Punjabi settler styles since almost every islander's family came from the mainland. Vegetarians can eat well in Port Blair but choice narrows on the smaller islands, where produce arrives by boat. Tell your hotel in advance, and vegans should expect a limited menu.
Each has a full guide of its own, with its own food, heritage, hotels, trains and tours.