India › Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Andaman Islands: India's Dive Coast, Three Hours Out Into the Bay of Bengal

These 500-odd islands sit closer to Myanmar and Indonesia than to mainland India, and they hold the country's best diving and its most famous beach. They also hold closed tribal reserves that no visitor may enter, which shapes any honest itinerary.

Capital
Port Blair, on South Andaman, a Union Territory administered from Delhi
Languages
Hindi, Bengali, Tamil and Telugu are all widely spoken; English works everywhere in tourism
International airports
Veer Savarkar International, Port Blair (IXZ); in practice all flights arrive from mainland India
Metro
None; inter-island travel is by government and private ferry, plus a few seaplane and helicopter services
Best time
October to May, dry and 23-32°C; heavy rain roughly May to September
Closed areas
The Nicobar Islands and tribal reserve areas are closed to tourists, and North Sentinel Island is strictly off-limits

Overview

The chain runs for about 800 km north to south in the Bay of Bengal, roughly 1,200 km from Chennai and far closer to Indonesia's Aceh than to Kolkata. The Andaman group in the north is open to visitors; the Nicobar group in the south is not. The islands are the tops of a submerged mountain range, which is why the water drops away steeply and the fringing reefs are so good for diving.

The history here is mostly penal and military. The British built the Cellular Jail at Port Blair in 1906 to hold Indian political prisoners in solitary cells, and the islands were occupied by Japan from 1942 to 1945. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami struck the southern islands hard. Several indigenous peoples, including the Great Andamanese, Jarawa, Onge, Shompen and Sentinelese, live here, some in deliberate isolation protected by law.

For a traveller from Britain, Europe or the United States the appeal is straightforward: warm, clear water, proper PADI diving, empty white beaches and no tourist crush outside the Indian holiday peaks. The practicalities are less straightforward. Flights all route through mainland India, ferries govern your schedule, permit rules for foreign nationals change, and darkness falls before six because the islands sit far east of their clock.

Hand-held, every step

You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.

In Andaman & Nicobar Islands that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.

  • Airport welcome with a name board, a local SIM and your first rupees sorted
  • One trip manager on WhatsApp for the whole journey, answering within the hour
  • Guides who explain each ritual, dish and carving as you meet it
  • Reserved, safe places at festivals rather than the crush
  • A real part in a puja, a wedding or a family celebration if you want one
  • Female guide on request, vetted drivers, and no shopping-commission stops

Festivals worth planning a trip around

Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.

FestivalWhenWhat happens
Island Tourism FestivalJanA ten-day territorial festival in Port Blair with folk troupes from the mainland settler communities, food stalls and water sports displays.
Subhash MelaJanNetaji Subhas Chandra Bose's visit of 1943 is marked at Port Blair with parades and a fair, reflecting the islands' wartime history.
Durga PujaSep-OctThe large Bengali settler community stages full pandals in Port Blair, Diglipur and Rangat; the biggest community festival here.
Pongal and Tamil new yearJan and AprTamil settler villages across South Andaman mark both, with kolam patterns and new-pot rice cooking.
Christmas and EasterDec and Mar-AprThere is a substantial Christian population, including Nicobarese and Karen communities, and churches in Port Blair hold full services.
EidIslamic calendar, moves yearlyObserved in Port Blair and the Muslim settler villages, with a public holiday across the territory.
Beach Festival, Swaraj DweepFeb-MarDive demonstrations, music and food on Havelock, timed for the calmest sea of the year.
Republic Day26 JanA notably large parade in Port Blair given the territory's penal and military history, with the Cellular Jail floodlit.

Food to try in Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.

  1. Grilled reef and pelagic fishRed snapper, grouper and tuna straight off the boats; the beach shacks on Havelock grill it with lime and garlic.
  2. Andaman mud crabLarge mangrove crab cooked with butter and pepper or in a coconut curry; order it a few hours ahead anywhere.
  3. Lobster at HavelockSeasonal and expensive, grilled simply at the beach restaurants near Radhanagar and Govind Nagar.
  4. Fish curry with coconut, Tamil styleThe settler Tamil kitchens in Port Blair cook a thin, sour coconut fish curry with rice.
  5. Bengali shorshe machMustard fish from the Bengali settler community, a reminder that most islanders' families came from the mainland.
  6. Amritsari fish fryBattered fish from the Punjabi settler kitchens in Port Blair, an unexpected island speciality.
  7. Coconut prawn curryCooked across the islands with locally pressed coconut milk, mild and the standard restaurant dish.
  8. Tender coconut and coconut waterSold at every jetty and beach; the islands grow their own and it is the practical drink in the humidity.
  9. Chaat and street food, Aberdeen BazaarPort Blair's market has the full mainland street-food range, cooked by settler families from six states.
  10. Note on supplyMost vegetables, dairy and meat arrive by ship or plane, so menus are fish-led and produce can run short after bad weather.

Heritage sites in Andaman & Nicobar Islands

  1. Cellular Jail, Port BlairThe 1906 colonial prison built for Indian political prisoners, with seven wings of solitary cells and an evening light-and-sound show.
  2. Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep)The ruined British administrative headquarters, abandoned after a 1941 earthquake and the Japanese occupation.
  3. Viper IslandAn earlier penal site with gallows ruins, used before the Cellular Jail was completed.
  4. Japanese bunkers, South AndamanConcrete defences from the 1942 to 1945 occupation, scattered along the coast road and at Chidiya Tapu.
  5. Anthropological Museum, Port BlairThe territory's museum of the islands' indigenous peoples, the responsible way to learn about them.
  6. Samudrika Naval Marine MuseumA navy-run museum of island geology, reefs and marine life, useful before you dive.
  7. Chatham Saw MillOne of Asia's oldest saw mills, established in 1883, with a small forest museum and wartime bomb damage.
  8. Mount Harriet (Mount Manipur) National ParkThe colonial summer headquarters above Port Blair, on the reverse of the old ten-rupee note.
  9. Karen village at Webi, Middle AndamanA settlement of Burmese Karen brought as forest labour in the 1920s, with its own church and language.
  10. Ross and Smith Islands, DiglipurTwin islands joined by a natural sandbar, far north and reached after a long drive or boat.

Places to visit in Andaman & Nicobar Islands

  1. Port BlairThe capital and the arrival point, with the Cellular Jail, museums and the ferry terminals.
  2. Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)The main beach and diving base, with Radhanagar Beach on its western shore.
  3. Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep)Small, flat and quiet, with coral and a natural bridge, about an hour from Port Blair by ferry.
  4. Radhanagar BeachThe headline beach of the Indian archipelago, a long white curve backed by forest.
  5. Chidiya TapuThe southern tip of South Andaman, a sunset point with mangroves, birdlife and Japanese bunkers.
  6. Baratang IslandLimestone caves and a mud volcano, reached through a convoy road that crosses a tribal reserve.
  7. Mount Harriet and MadhubanForest trails above Port Blair, with the best viewpoint in the southern islands.
  8. Diglipur, North AndamanTwelve hours north by road, with Ross and Smith Islands and Saddle Peak, the highest point at 732 metres.
  9. Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, WandoorReef islands and glass-bottom boat access southwest of Port Blair.
  10. Nicobar IslandsClosed to tourists entirely; there is no visitor access and no permit available.

Waterfalls, lakes and wild places

Visibility and sea conditions are best from December to April, with diving generally good from October to May. The monsoon from roughly May to September brings heavy rain, rough crossings and cancelled ferries. Swim between flags where lifeguards are posted, respect rip-current warnings at Radhanagar, and never touch coral.

  1. Radhanagar Beach, HavelockWest coast of Swaraj Dweep; a long white beach with lifeguards and a strong shore break at times.
  2. Elephant Beach, HavelockReached by boat or a forest walk; the main snorkelling and watersports beach, shallow and busy.
  3. Bharatpur and Laxmanpur, Neil IslandCalm shallow reef on one side and a sunset beach with a natural coral bridge on the other.
  4. Dive sites off HavelockNamed sites including Dixon's Pinnacle and Johnny's Gorge, in 18-30 metres with good visibility from December to April.
  5. Wandoor and the Marine National ParkSouthwest of Port Blair; reef islands with glass-bottom boats and restricted landing.
  6. Ross and Smith Islands, DiglipurTwo islands joined by a natural sand bar you can walk across at low tide.
  7. Chidiya Tapu and Munda Pahar beachSouth Andaman's sunset coast, with mangrove channels behind.
  8. Limestone caves and mud volcano, BaratangNot swimming water but the territory's odd geological outing, reached by mangrove creek boat.

Where to stay in Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.

  1. Taj Exotica Resort and Spa, HavelockRadhanagar, Swaraj Dweep; the islands' luxury property, beachfront villasLuxury
  2. Barefoot at HavelockNear Radhanagar Beach; the long-established eco-resort that opened up Havelock tourismBoutique
  3. SeaShell HavelockGovind Nagar, Swaraj Dweep; comfortable, central for the dive schools and jettyUpscale
  4. Symphony Palms Beach Resort, HavelockGovind Nagar beach side, established cottages with a poolUpscale
  5. Fortune Resort Bay Island, Port BlairMarine Hill; a long-standing ITC-group hotel with harbour viewsUpscale
  6. SeaShell Port BlairNear Marine Hill; modern rooms, convenient for the airport and jettyUpscale
  7. Sea Princess Beach Resort, Port BlairCorbyn's Cove; the capital's beachfront optionMid-range
  8. SeaShell NeilNeil Island; the most comfortable rooms on a quiet islandMid-range
  9. Summer Sands Beach Resort, NeilLaxmanpur side of Shaheed Dweep, simple cottages near the beachMid-range
  10. Government and ANIIDCO guest housesTerritorial accommodation in Port Blair, Rangat and Diglipur, plain and useful in the far northMid-range

Evenings out and culture

PlaceWhat it is
Cellular Jail light and sound showAn evening narration of the prison's history projected onto the wings, in Hindi and English on alternate nights.
Dive school evenings, HavelockThe PADI schools at Govind Nagar run briefings, log sessions and film nights, which is the island's real social scene.
Beach shack dining, Govind NagarAlcohol is legal and served at hotels and licensed shacks, but the islands shut early because it is dark by six.
Island Tourism Festival performancesTen days in January of mainland settler folk forms, from Bengali to Tamil to Nicobarese presentations.
Corbyn's Cove and Port Blair hotel barsThe capital's limited after-dark options, mostly hotel terraces with harbour views.
Note on early nightsBecause the islands run on Indian Standard Time but sit far to the east, sunset is around 5pm and most places are quiet by nine.

Getting to Andaman & Nicobar Islands by air

Airport or routeDetail
Veer Savarkar International, Port Blair (IXZ)Four kilometres from the town centre; the only airport taking scheduled passenger flights in the territory.
Flights from mainland IndiaDirect services from Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi and Bengaluru; Chennai and Kolkata are the shortest at about two hours.
From the UK and EuropeNo direct flights of any kind; fly London or Frankfurt to Chennai, Kolkata or Delhi, overnight there, then fly on to Port Blair.
From the USAThree flights in total is normal, via a Gulf hub, then an Indian metro, then IXZ; allow 30 to 34 hours with a mainland overnight.
Inter-island airLimited seaplane and helicopter services operate to Havelock and Diglipur but are weather-dependent and not bookable reliably.
Baggage and timingFlights into IXZ almost all land in the morning, because afternoon weather and the early sunset limit operations.

Trains and road to Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Route or stationDetail
There is no railway in the islandsThe Andaman and Nicobar Islands have no rail network at all; all movement is by road, ferry or air.
Mainland rail to ChennaiIf you are arriving overland, Chennai Central connects to the whole south, and Chennai is the main air gateway to IXZ.
Mainland rail to KolkataHowrah and Sealdah serve eastern India, and Kolkata is the other principal departure point for Port Blair flights.
Ferries instead of trainsGovernment ferries sail from Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam to Port Blair, taking roughly 50 to 70 hours.
Inter-island ferriesPrivate catamarans and government ferries link Port Blair, Havelock and Neil daily; book ahead in season.
Andaman Trunk RoadThe 300 km road north to Diglipur runs in convoy through a tribal reserve, with strict no-stopping and no-photography rules.

Weather, seasons and best time to visit Andaman & Nicobar Islands

December to April is the sweet spot, with 23-32°C days, the calmest sea and the best underwater visibility of the year. Avoid June to August, when heavy rain cancels ferries and closes dive schools, and remember that darkness falls before six all year.

MonthsSeasonDay temperatureWhat to expect
Dec-FebDry and clear23-30°C / 73-86°FThe best conditions of the year: calm sea, strong diving visibility, low humidity by island standards and reliable ferries.
Mar-MayHot and humid25-32°C / 77-90°FStill mostly dry into April, with warm water for diving; May brings rising humidity and the first heavy squalls.
Jun-AugSouthwest monsoon24-31°C / 75-88°FHeavy persistent rain, rough crossings, frequent ferry cancellations and many dive schools closed.
Sep-NovRetreating monsoon24-31°C / 75-88°FRain eases through October and the sea settles; November is a good shoulder month with lower prices.

Andaman & Nicobar Islands tour packages

Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.

Location · Oct - May

Port Blair, Havelock and Neil

8 nights · Port Blair, Swaraj Dweep, Shaheed Dweep

The Cellular Jail and Ross Island, then Radhanagar, reef snorkelling and the quiet beaches of Neil, all by ferry.

From US$2,600 per person

Wellness · Nov - Apr

Learn to Dive in the Andamans

9 nights · Port Blair, Swaraj Dweep

A full PADI Open Water course with a Havelock school, then four fun dives at the outer pinnacles.

From US$2,925 per person

Tradition · Oct - May

Penal Colony and Occupation History

6 nights · Port Blair, Ross Island, Mount Harriet

Walk the Cellular Jail wings, the ruined British capital on Ross and the Japanese bunkers with an island historian.

From US$1,850 per person

Festival · Fixed dates, Jan 2027

Island Tourism Festival and the Beaches

7 nights · Port Blair, Swaraj Dweep

Ten days of settler-community performance in the capital, paired with Radhanagar and a reef day.

From US$2,200 per person

Wildlife · Nov - Apr

Reefs, Mangroves and Chidiya Tapu

7 nights · Port Blair, Wandoor, Swaraj Dweep

Glass-bottom boats in the marine park, mangrove creeks at Chidiya Tapu, and two days of reef snorkelling.

From US$2,112 per person

Season · Dec - Mar

Northern Islands and Diglipur

10 nights · Port Blair, Rangat, Diglipur

The long convoy road north to Saddle Peak and the Ross and Smith sandbar, with limestone caves on the way.

From US$3,075 per person

Take part, don't just watch

Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.

First open-water dive with a Havelock instructor

A resident PADI instructor takes you through the pool skills and then down a sloping reef wall where the drop-off begins at eighteen metres. She logs the dive with you afterwards and explains how the reefs recovered from the 2010 bleaching.

Cellular Jail wings with a descendant

A Port Blair resident whose family was transported here walks you cell by cell through the surviving wings, including the gallows and the central tower. The light-and-sound show that evening then makes narrative sense.

Night fishing with a Neil Island boat family

A fishing family takes you out after dark with hand lines, which is how most of the island's catch is still taken. They cook what you land on the beach and explain how supply ships govern island prices.

Mangrove creek paddle at Chidiya Tapu

A local naturalist paddles you into the mangrove channels at the island's southern tip at dawn, watching for sea eagles and mudskippers. He explains which species arrived with the settlers and which were always here.

Questions travellers ask about Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Why should I visit the Andaman Islands?

For the best diving in India and beaches that genuinely rival Southeast Asia, with a colonial prison and a Japanese occupation layered underneath. The water is 27 to 29°C, visibility at the outer pinnacles runs past thirty metres in season, and outside Indian holiday peaks Radhanagar can be almost empty.

Are any parts of the islands closed to visitors?

Yes, and this is absolute. The entire Nicobar group is closed to tourists, with no permit available. Tribal reserve areas on the Andamans are also closed, and North Sentinel Island is strictly off-limits, with any approach illegal and dangerous. The Andaman Trunk Road crosses a reserve under convoy rules forbidding stopping, photography or contact.

Do foreign nationals need a permit?

Foreign nationals can visit the permitted islands, and historically a Restricted Area Permit applies, issued on arrival at Port Blair on presentation of your passport and Indian visa. These rules have been revised several times in recent years, so check the current requirement before you fly and carry printed copies. We confirm the position for every departure.

When is the best time to visit, and is there a festival worth catching?

December to April, with 23 to 32°C, calm seas, good visibility and reliable ferries. The Island Tourism Festival runs ten days in January at Port Blair, with folk performance from every settler community, and Havelock's Beach Festival falls in February or March. May to September is monsoon, when crossings are cancelled and dive schools shut.

How do I get there from the USA, UK or Europe?

There are no international flights to Port Blair. Fly London, Frankfurt or Paris to Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi or Bengaluru, stay overnight, then take a morning flight of about two hours to IXZ. From North America that is three flights and 30 to 34 hours. Ships from Chennai and Kolkata take 50 to 70 hours.

Is it safe, including for solo female travellers?

Among the safest places in India for a woman alone. The islands are small, policed and economically dependent on visitors behaving well and being looked after. The real risks are in the water: rip currents at Radhanagar, boat crossings in rough weather, and diving beyond your certification. Use licensed operators only.

What do your Andaman tours cost?

Our ground cost runs from about US$1,480 for the six-night history itinerary to roughly US$2,460 for ten nights including the far north, per person sharing. The PADI course programme is around US$2,340. Island costs are higher than the mainland because everything arrives by ship. Mainland connecting flights, international flights and visa are extra.

How many days do I need in the Andamans?

Seven nights minimum once you account for the ferries: two in Port Blair and four or five on Havelock and Neil. Nine or ten if you want a dive certification or the northern islands. Anything under five nights is mostly spent in transit, and the inter-island ferry schedule will dictate your itinerary rather than the reverse.

Why do people say the days end so early?

Because the islands keep Indian Standard Time but lie far east of the meridian it is set by. Sunrise can be around 5am and darkness falls close to 5pm all year, with little seasonal variation this near the equator. Dive boats leave at dawn, sightseeing finishes by four, and restaurants are quiet by nine.

What is there to eat, and can vegetarians manage?

Fish, mud crab, prawns and seasonal lobster, cooked in Tamil, Bengali and Punjabi settler styles since almost every islander's family came from the mainland. Vegetarians can eat well in Port Blair but choice narrows on the smaller islands, where produce arrives by boat. Tell your hotel in advance, and vegans should expect a limited menu.

Cities and towns in Andaman & Nicobar Islands

Each has a full guide of its own, with its own food, heritage, hotels, trains and tours.

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